The short pieces that make up H V Morton’s The Nights of London were originally published as newspaper columns in the 1920s, but had a long afterlife in book form. My small blue hardback is dated 1948 and it had been reprinted fourteen times by then.
Morton was a star journalist, making his name by being present at the opening of the tomb of Tutankhamun. He went on to become a successful travel writer, the Paul Theroux of the inter-war years.
Here, Morton is our guide on a series of lone, nocturnal tours of London. He was aware that the idea of London by night had already become something of a cliché and he strove to avoid that.
He starts out at two in the morning in front of the Bank, cold, dead and deserted. It’s immediately clear that we are in the company of a sort of poet of London, as he walks on to London Bridge: “No sound, but that of a stray, petulant siren downstream. . . the rush of lit water and a sudden puff of steam from the Cannon Street railway bridge.”
Part of the fascination of this book is reflecting on what has changed and what has not. Morton’s attitude to the Chinese in Limehouse is not that of today; on the other hand he is broadly sympathetic to those struggling to make ends meet.
He visits the Suicide Station under Waterloo Bridge, where the police wait with a small dinghy to fish would-be suicides out of the dark water.
He accompanies the maintenance men on the tube and hopes that the current in the live rail really has been turned off, as they so confidently assure him.
He passes the time in a warm and cosy cabman’s shelter.
When he visits Fleet Street, we feel the journalist’s love for “the astonishing thunder of the press”. There is something of Rudyard Kipling here, as he describes the huge printing machines, “ready to tell today about yesterday”. There is also a reminder in his language that this is London just after the first world war: “In Fleet Street it is zero hour. The first edition is just going over the top into a new day.”
Similarly, the firemen in the station he visits remember dealing with the recent Zeppelin raids.
The pieces on evening classes and hospitals, remind us that we are in a harder world than today, before the expansion of public education and public access to health care.
He spends an evening in the East End, watching boxing bouts in a smoky hall.
The steam engine Sir Percivale pulls the night Continental boat train into Victoria Station, bringing the romance of the Mediterranean into London along with his train of Pullman cars. A touch of Kipling again, as Morton imagines the engines talking to each other in the engine shed.
He reflects on the sad atmosphere in an afterhours club, where people dance on into the small hours, people “who dare not be alone with themselves”.
A long bus ride north takes him to the very edge of London, where a development of new houses is reaching out into the countryside. His young companion proudly shows him the unfinished house, waiting for him and his young bride. On the other hand, a Bloomsbury boarding house straight out of E F Benson or Patrick Hamiliton is inhabited by retired Indian army colonels and shabby-genteel widows.
On a trip down the river on a police launch, time slips away in the dark and Morton sees London looking much as it always has done. This is an experience certainly not available to us today. What would Morton make of the view now?
The penultimate piece is slightly longer and was not previously published. Morton goes to stay in a candle-lit room at The George in Southwark, the coaching inn even then regarded as a miraculous survival from Victorian London. Even more miraculous is that it is still there today, now looked after by the National Trust.
His nocturnal wanderings end with a beautiful evocation of early morning over London: “The feeling of other worldliness has vanished with the dawn light”.
“London in the dawn is a clean, unwritten page”, Morton tells us. What will the new day bring for the millions of Londoners?



